Never in a million years would I guess I’d be speaking Spanish and eating burgers with strangers from Barcelona in Indonesia.
Yet here I am.
Today I was stuck in a place where – both geographically and emotionally – I did not want to be.
Coming into Indonesia, I was mentally prepared to handle this adventure on my own. At the eleventh hour – as it always happens – I connected with a friend I met 8 years ago in Argentina, and we agreed to meet for a post-Christmas island trip. I settled into traveling with her so easily that it left me a little blindsided when she departed, socking me in the gut with loneliness. For the first time since I left home, I felt homesick (only 2 weeks in! GAH!). It was all too easy to enjoy the comfort of the familiar – catching up with an old friend after years spent apart, reminiscing about our time in Argentina, even just speaking English at my usual pace, with my usual slang – it all felt lovely. So when she left, I was left again to my own devices. Even though I initially set out to embrace my time alone, it was so much easier – especially emotionally – to handle everything with a buddy. I don’t think I would have enjoyed the nightly whole-island blackouts half as much if we hadn’t been in the dark together.
I followed my friend to Seminyak and we had a fine time our one night there. We would part ways in the morning; she would continue her adventure to Thailand, and I would go wherever the wind blew me. Or so I thought.
I was stuck in a cheap hotel in a busy/noisy/touristy area that left a lot to be desired after experiencing the warm welcome of Ubud and quiet coolness of Lembongan. I tried to arrange for a taxi to get the hell out, really to anywhere they’d take me away from this less-than-serene spot. It’s a popular place for lots of reasons, but it had no place in the quiet, reflective journey I desired. The noise, traffic, fancy boutiques and parties were not what I came for. I asked the front desk for help arranging to leave, and they made me feel like such a bother. Taxis would not even come to the hotel because traffic was too heavy; they knew they would get stuck, just like I was. What was meant to be a mere pass-through started to feel like a prison.
I sat in the one and only seat in the hotel lobby all day, my stomach still angry after a miserable 24-hour bout of Bali Belly, with no bathroom, no air conditioning, spotty wifi, and dwindling hope that I would be able to get out of my trap.
These unexpected frustrations had stolen my sense of adventure for the moment, leaving me with a sour mood that didn’t match the Bali bliss I had found so far. I felt like a total stinker, and it was my own dang fault I was in this pickle in the first place. My spontaneous “planning” (I use that term very loosely) philosophy had finally taken a wrong turn.
After literal hours of reaching dead ends in pursuit of an escape plan, I ran across a lovely guesthouse near where I wanted to be (which, truthfully, was anywhere away from this Godforsaken hotel). The Spanish owner, German, got back to me in a jiffy.
All his rooms were full. All I could think was, “ARE YOU FREAKING KIDDING ME???”
But he offered to help. His place was full, but he would find a place for me nearby. He sent a driver to pick me up since no local drivers would bring me there. I had been waiting for hours, unable to even help myself due to language barriers, disagreeable taxis, limited wifi and a lack of planning. And he solved all of my problems in minutes.
A few more hours later in what felt like one of the longer days of my life, I arrived at the guesthouse and German asked my favorite question – “would you like a coffee?” (The answer is always, ALWAYS “yes!”). The smile instantly returned to my face.
We sat and chitchatted. I practiced my Spanish and he told me the story of how he ended up in Indonesia (one of my other favorite questions – you always get an interesting story!). He messaged some friends and found a place for me to stay. He took me and all my things to another guesthouse up the street, showed me around as though it were his place – and offered to pick me up later for dinner with his Spanish friends who just arrived in town, if I was interested. (Yes yes YES, I was!). He treated me like a friend.
As German started to leave to allow me to settle in, I threw my arms out to hug him. I could tell I surprised him, but he handled it gracefully. I wasn’t even a paying guest at his property (yet – I moved there a few days later) and he had generously given his time and effort to help me, a complete stranger. No words in any language could express my gratitude for his help and his kindness.
I stepped into the warm shower to wash the day away – outdoors, stars shining overhead – and it began to rain. Warm beads of water from the shower and cool droplets from the dark sky overhead rolled down my skin, and I began to laugh. Hard. Out came all the sourness, the frustration, the negativity from earlier in the day. As unfamiliar as this place was, I had found such familiarity and comfort in a language that isn’t even my own, and in a person that, as of an hour ago, was a complete stranger. The unexpected strangeness of all this produced a laugh so deep that my belly ached and I fought to keep sound from coming out, lest I disturb my very new neighbors. And with that laugh, the stink face I had been sporting most of the day melted away into the beads of water. I took a deep breath and felt a gorgeous, deep release.
Every single bit of this day was totally unexpected; the second half of this day became one of my favorites so far.

Brawner, this is all so amazing! (Meaning not just this post, but the whole blog, the fb updates, everything.) You will be AWESOME at what you want to do! I can tell I’m not the only person who feels like you’ve taken them along on this trip somehow. Your posts and photos don’t feel like “someone’s vacation pictures”; they feel like a shared experience. Your openness about the deeper stuff and personal stuff is beautiful, and brave. You have this ability that some people have (Racheal Ray comes to mind) to make strangers feel like friends. I can just see myself someday bragging “I know her! Well, she worked with Nick right after college, and we had dinner a few times. She MIGHT remember me.” 😉
I was listening tonight to these chapters from A Month of Italy by Chris Brady, and all I could think about was you and your trip. I think you’d really enjoy them (if the links work):
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwQdhL-Yv1PFNFo2M1ZTNUhxSW8/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwQdhL-Yv1PFbDhBYnVuSmItams/view?usp=sharing
Thanks for taking us on such a cool trip! 😀
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Oh Megan, thank you so much for reading! I’m honored to hear you feel like you’re here with me (which, of course, I wish you were)! Nick totally lent me A Month of Italy – I believe I still have it, waiting to be read. Looks like it’ll be first on my reading list when I return home! Huge hugs to the whole family!
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